Traveller's Richard Tulloch shares his experience in Belgium 

"As we sit on the stone bench beneath the thousands of names inscribed behind us, my Belgian cycling guide Marnick and I reflect on our existence. If the bullet that wounded my grandfather had struck him a fraction higher, his name may have been on this wall at Tyne Cot Cemetery, and I would not be here.

If Marnick's grandfather had not fled his village as the Germans advanced and evacuated his family to Ypres, his wife and baby may not have died from typhoid. He may never have joined the Belgian forces and met his second wife. Marnick would not have been born.

I knew my grandfather well. It's a moving experience for me to trace the journey of Arthur Dean, infantryman, aged 22, of the Australian 1st Division, 2nd Brigade, 7th Battalion. Thanks to the maps of a self-guided cycling tour, my wife and I can follow almost the exact route he took from Amiens in France, through the carnage in Pozieres, over the Belgian border, around Hellfire Corner on the Menin Road by Ypres and towards the disastrous bloodbath at Passchendaele..."

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